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Measuring a skylight, How to install a skylight, How to install a tubular skylight solar tube, Skylight installation

Measuring for Your Skylight

Size is typically the most important factor in purchasing and installing a skylight. While both size and position will determine how much extra light is admitted to the space below, size is the dominant factor. Use the following “rule of thumb” for sizing a skylight: the skylight size should never be more than 5% of the floor area in rooms with many windows and no more than 15% of the room’s total floor area for spaces with few windows.

Keep in mind that the measure is absolutely critical! It must be accurate and needs to be based upon typical industry reference points as provided below. Nothing can be more frustrating than receiving the wrong sized material. Although it is nothing to be afraid of, we would encourage you to familiarize yourself so as to avoid a potentially costly mistake.

When ordering or describing a skylight, the measurements are always expressed as width (dimension horizontally across the roof) x lengthwidth dimension.
Self flashing Skylights or (SF) skylights are fitted into an opening in the roof. The ‘rough opening’ is the size of the hole built into or cut into the roof to accept the skylight. The actual size of the skylight will be 1/2 smaller in both width and length, allowing some ability to adjust the actual skylight position within that opening. (dimension vertically up the roof).On venting skylights, the hinge will be on the

Curb mout Skylights or (CM) skylights are mounted onto curbs on the roof. Curb Mounted frame sizing is taken from the Outside Curb Dimension. The Outside Curb Dimension is the overall OD (outside dimension) size of the of the finished built up curb. Importantly, this also includes the applied roofing materials as taken from the top of the curb where the skylight is to fit. Skylights are sized slightly larger than the OD of the curb in order to fit over the top like a crown, and reference what is commonly referred to as the Inside Flange Dimension, also known as the Inside Aluminum Dimension or the Inside Unit Dimension. The important issue here is that you provide us with the proper OD of the curb. We can assist you with the rest!  Check out our top Velux Curb Mounted skylights and Deck Mounted Skylights here

How To Install A Tubular Skylight

How To Install a Skylight

Interior Opening

The process of installing a roof window is much like installing a wall window, with a few added steps and obvious precautions from falling. And like most windows, the majority of the work involves framing the opening — two openings when framing a shaft.

It’s usually less hassle to start installation by creating the interior opening first. This is done by marking the roof window opening on the ceiling or unfinished framing.

If you have to cut through into the attic, check for wiring that might be in the way and remove any insulation in that area. Cut the opening and remove the drywall or ceiling material.

Reinforce the outer ceiling joists with same-sized lumber pieces screwed on each side extending to the next header. In some cases this may be the entire ceiling length.

NOTE: Screws are suggested here because hammering may crack existing drywall seams.

Remove the ceiling joists that occupy the interior opening, cutting back to accommodate the headers ( minimum double-headers = at least 3″) on each side. Install the appropriate-sized headers. If you’re not sure, contact a building inspector. But there should be at least two pieces of lumber on each side.

Recess header the thickness of the ceiling drywall. Install trimmer studs between the headers on each side of the opening at the proper width.

Later, you’ll need to frame between the ceiling opening and the roof window frame in order to support the window and hang the drywall. For that reason, we’ll frame the window on the roof next instead of finishing out the shaft.
Exterior Opening

To transpose the center of the ceiling opening to the roof, locate the center of each ceiling frame header, mark them and align a plumb bob from the underside of the roof sheathing down to each mark. Mark the opposing points on the sheathing and draw a line connecting them.

Use this center line as reference to transpose the recommended roof window opening dimensions.

NOTE: Some roof windows set in the frame and attach with brackets, while better designed windows have a flange that allows them to set on the roof over the frame.

With the opening marked, reinforce the rafters like the ceiling joist, nailing same-sized lumber to the peak. Poke nails through the roof at the corners of the drawing. Up on the roof, snap a chalkline using the nails as guides.

Using a carbide-tip blade in a circular saw, carefully cut the opening and finish the corner cuts with a hand or reciprocating saw.

WARNING: Because the blade will gum up with tar and may kick back, some people prefer to cut through the shingles and roofing with reciprocating saw. However, with this method it’s more difficult to cut a straight line. You may opt to do waterproofing before leaving the roof (mention later).

Pry off the cut piece and returning to the attic, cut the exposed rafters in the opening, again, allowing for the headers on each side (usually 3″). Now, install the headers and trimmer studs for the correct height and width of the roof opening.
Waterproofing

Back on the roof, remove the shingles surrounding the opening to allow for waterproofing measures (i.e. flashing, tar paper). Don’t skimp here, roof windows are vulnerable to leaking if not installed properly.

Before fastening the window to the roof framing, consider putting down ice and water protection, in the roll form, or more messy but less expensive, roofing tar. Anchor the window according to the manufacturer’s directions.

NOTE: Nailing/screwing the flashing in the incorrect place may cause water to leak in. As an added measure, put down ice and water protection again, this time over the window flange. Add roofing felt over the protection and caulk where it butts up against the window.

Start at the bottom of the window with the step flashing, install a shingle, then flashing, etc. Overlap the flashing as you work toward the top. The manufacturer may include additional waterproofing channel flashing or framing.
Shaft Framing

With the window installed, the shaft is all that’s left to frame. It helps support the window and provides framing for the drywall.

Reinforce under the four corners and support the side framing every 16″ by beveling or notching 2x4s or 2x6s, nailing them to the headers and studs.

After toenailing the studs in, insulate the cavity and install a vapor barrier. That completes the roof window installation. Now the shaft is ready for drywall.
Miscellaneous Information

Installation should be done by a qualified roofer or contractor.
Complete installation instructions are shipped with each skylight. Follow these instructions precisely to assure a quality installation.

A certified installer program is under development. E-mail Skylights Online if you are interested in becoming a certified installer.

The process of installing a roof window is much like installing a wall window, with a few added steps and obvious precautions from falling. And like most windows, the majority of the work involves framing the opening — two openings when framing a shaft.

It’s usually less hassle to start installation by creating the interior opening first. This is done by marking the roof window opening on the ceiling or unfinished framing.

If you have to cut through into the attic, check for wiring that might be in the way and remove any insulation in that area. Cut the opening and remove the drywall or ceiling material.

Reinforce the outer ceiling joists with same-sized lumber pieces screwed on each side extending to the next header. In some cases this may be the entire ceiling length.

NOTE: Screws are suggested here because hammering may crack existing drywall seams.

Remove the ceiling joists that occupy the interior opening, cutting back to accommodate the headers ( minimum double-headers = at least 3″) on each side. Install the appropriate-sized headers. If you’re not sure, contact a building inspector. But there should be at least two pieces of lumber on each side.

Recess header the thickness of the ceiling drywall. Install trimmer studs between the headers on each side of the opening at the proper width.

Later, you’ll need to frame between the ceiling opening and the roof window frame in order to support the window and hang the drywall. For that reason, we’ll frame the window on the roof next instead of finishing out the shaft.

Exterior Opening

To transpose the center of the ceiling opening to the roof, locate the center of each ceiling frame header, mark them and align a plumb bob from the underside of the roof sheathing down to each mark. Mark the opposing points on the sheathing and draw a line connecting them.

Use this center line as reference to transpose the recommended roof window opening dimensions.

NOTE: Some roof windows set in the frame and attach with brackets, while better designed windows have a flange that allows them to set on the roof over the frame.

With the opening marked, reinforce the rafters like the ceiling joist, nailing same-sized lumber to the peak. Poke nails through the roof at the corners of the drawing. Up on the roof, snap a chalkline using the nails as guides.

Using a carbide-tip blade in a circular saw, carefully cut the opening and finish the corner cuts with a hand or reciprocating saw.

WARNING: Because the blade will gum up with tar and may kick back, some people prefer to cut through the shingles and roofing with reciprocating saw. However, with this method it’s more difficult to cut a straight line. You may opt to do waterproofing before leaving the roof (mention later).

Pry off the cut piece and returning to the attic, cut the exposed rafters in the opening, again, allowing for the headers on each side (usually 3″). Now, install the headers and trimmer studs for the correct height and width of the roof opening.

Waterproofing

Back on the roof, remove the shingles surrounding the opening to allow for waterproofing measures (i.e. flashing, tar paper). Don’t skimp here, roof windows are vulnerable to leaking if not installed properly.

Before fastening the window to the roof framing, consider putting down ice and water protection, in the roll form, or more messy but less expensive, roofing tar. Anchor the window according to the manufacturer’s directions.

NOTE: Nailing/screwing the flashing in the incorrect place may cause water to leak in. As an added measure, put down ice and water protection again, this time over the window flange. Add roofing felt over the protection and caulk where it butts up against the window.

Start at the bottom of the window with the step flashing, install a shingle, then flashing, etc. Overlap the flashing as you work toward the top. The manufacturer may include additional waterproofing channel flashing or framing.

Shaft Framing

With the window installed, the shaft is all that’s left to frame. It helps support the window and provides framing for the drywall.

Reinforce under the four corners and support the side framing every 16″ by beveling or notching 2x4s or 2x6s, nailing them to the headers and studs.

After toenailing the studs in, insulate the cavity and install a vapor barrier. That completes the roof window installation. Now the shaft is ready for drywall.

Miscellaneous Information

Installation should be done by a qualified roofer or contractor.
Complete installation instructions are shipped with each skylight. Follow these instructions precisely to assure a quality installation.

A certified installer program is under development. E-mail Skylights Online if you are interested in becoming a certified installer.

Velux No leak Skylight